Blog - On the Front Lines with Entrepreneurs
On the Front Lines UPDATE: Entrepreneur Mariann Smith declares New York Gift Show "better than expected"
Throughout the year we are checking in with Collective-E member Mariann Smith, Founder Just Bubbly and a self described "small" "artisan" soap business with revenues around $200k who sells both wholesale and retail (online), to get her take on the economy. Things have been picking up since we first talked to her in May of '09 in our blog posting titled On the front lines with Mariann Smith, Founder Just Bubbly: The retail environment from an entrepreneur's perspective and even more since August after the Philadelphia Gift Show where she spoke to us about it being her best Philadelphia Gift Show yet. According to Mariann "the buzz with the vendors at the New York Gift Show this year, early September, was very good and much better than expected...the first three days were especially busy." Her numbers were up 25% compared to the show last August.
To read more about her thoughts and take on the economy check out my Huffington Post article >
UPDATE On The Front Lines: Mariann Smith, Founder Just Bubbly reports her best July Philadelphia Gift Show in 5 Years
The On the Front Lines Series is the true life, inside stories of entrepreneurs making it work.
In May 2009 we visited with Mariann Smith, Founder Just Bubbly, a self described “small” “artisan” soap business with revenues around $200k. She was very helpful in sharing her experience of the retail environment and had just had an order for 7k pieces from Bath & Body Works. Now, in August 2009 we reconnected and here is the update. She just got back from the Philadelphia Gift Show and shared her observation and insight.
Mariann had her best July Philadelphia Gift Show in 5 years and here is what she noticed:
- Retailers are placing larger orders for immediate shipment. Mariann’s theory is that many had let their shelves go bare out of fear of the economy and they need to restock fast.
- Opposed to what normally happens, retailers are reluctant to place orders for Halloween, Christmas or in the future, they will wait until closer to the dates and again want immediate delivery. Mariann’s theory is that they don’t want to be over confident.
- Selling best are still primary colors and feel good items, at a low price point. Click here to see her Philadelphia Gift Show display and become a Facebook Fan >
As the Philadelphia Gift Show is in the footprint of New York, she is looking forward and optimistic about the big daddy New York Gift Show which starts Sunday, August 16th. We’ll check in with her after the show!
On the Front Lines with Wendy Culpepper Jewelry: Forgoing trade shows in '09, online sales & other recession beating strategies
I have had my eye on Wendy Culpepper, founder Wendy Culpepper Jewelry, since she joined Collective-E. Wendy is one of these people with a lot of energy, talent and sparkle. Interviewing her I discovered some things I didn’t know, like she is only 27 years old and her business partner is her mother (love a mother/daughter team). Beyond that, very wise beyond her years, Wendy was very open with her experience because she felt like she had nowhere to go for answers when she started. We feel that her story is not only reflective of the jewelry industry, but is one being told across consumer goods in every category. Her story includes tough decisions, drastic changes in strategy to adjust to a changing marketplace and the bootstrapping mentality of any good startup. We were very impressed with Wendy and her business savvy, with Wendy Culpepper Jewelry carried in 100 retailers around the country, but also her generosity to share the nitty gritty of her business. So this isn’t a story of overnight success, it is a real story of an entrepreneur making it work in a rapidly changing environment. Thanks Wendy!
Wendy Culpepper, in partnership with her mother Judy Culpepper, has seen drastic changes in the jewelry industry in her almost 5 years in the business. If this article isn’t enough for you, or you have more in depth questions, Wendy will be featured live at our Industry Insight Event on July 29th: Designer Jewelry Business Forum & Trade Show Experience, an exlusive opportunity to attend the JA NY Show with Collective-E and Jewelers Resource.
Background
In talking to Wendy it is clear that she was ready to go out of the gate, not only skipping a year of high school but finishing college in three years. Thinking she would go into digital engineering but deciding she didn’t want to live her life behind a computer, Wendy explored her creative side by attending FIT and travelling abroad on a scholarship where she discovered a love of jewelry which reminded her of “little tiny engineered sculptures.” Coming back to New York she spent a year at Me & Ro Jewelry which at the time was a great, booming business with celebrity fans that included Julia Roberts. They were the first to create the lasting trend of yoga inspired jewelry and have since set out on a path creating retail stores. Working in product development she was very happy, but a happier relationship (and marriage), compelled her to move to the Boston area. Without a great job opportunity, and thinking “one day” she would like to have her own line, her mom got behind her and they decided “why wait?” Her mother, who is based in Florida, manages the books and analytics of the company.
Launching her Own Jewelry Line
With her background at Me & Ro, Wendy understood the in’s and out’s of wholesale jewelry and jumped in full force to wholesale with her line. This strategy required a large investment, from trade shows to inventory and materials. She originally produced here in the US which was significantly more expensive. She thought that starting a business outside of NYC would save her money, but she now believes in cost her more money in travel to New York for wholesale and it hurt her from a branding point of view. She goes on to say "while others will argue, she believes there is a perception that designers in New York have their fingers on the pulse of the trends," and according to Wendy, that helps with sales. Eventually she did move back to NY where her business is now based.
Online Versus Wholesale
When Wendy started in the business just a short 5 years ago, online stores for designers were not accepted, buyers would leave your booth if they found out you were selling online. This scared a lot of designers off the web and they are now way behind and playing catch up. She noticed a difference in January 2008 trade shows when the questions changed from, “do you sell online” to “do you run sales online,” in other words, are you going to undercut and compete with me as the retailer? Wendy did decide to launch an online store before many others but initially started doing it with reserve, “we never ran any kind of sales or did anything aggressive with marketing.” By holiday of last year, there wasn’t any argument or reason not to be online and now, she and her mother even advise the retailers who carry her product to build their own online stores. Now, retailers have caught on and realized that a strong online presence actually brings more people to the store, and in fact, on the Wendy Culpepper website one of the most trafficked pages on the site is her retail store page. Now, Wendy estimates that her business has drastically shifted, from 10% online sales and 90% wholesale, to 50% online and 50% wholesale while traffic to the site has increased by 500%
The Economy and Hard Decisions
In early 2008 she started to notice wholesale accounts shifting, especially fine jewelry. Serious warning bells went off as wholesale orders getting smaller and she had to act quickly and make tough decisions to survive. Because of her projection she is projecting sales growth this year. Her plan of attack:
• Go full force into online sales. Her efforts include building a brand new website and investing more time and energy into social media. Her online sales have essentially balanced out the drop in retail.
• Forgoing all trade shows in 2009. While she might return to the trade show circuit in 2010, she decided that fewer retailers are going to the shows and they are not picking up new designers. Instead, she is focused on reaching out to her current accounts for reorders.
• Keeping a tighter rein on overhead. Cost cutting has included everything from giving up NY showroom space to scrutinizing office supplies. She is not hiring, but not firing either.
• Keeping a small business, bootstrapping mentality. It has been a conscious decision for Wendy to stay on the smaller side. According to Wendy, "Many designers end up bankrupt by doing big deals with major retailers at bad terms because they don’t understand all the details such as return policies, factoring costs or cash flow issues. While it may have slowed our growth, we have been careful about that." She goes on to say that "most successful designers have a great CEO who helps them make good decisions, even if it means walking away from a deal, I have my mom.”
Wendy has lots more to say, like how she uses Twitter and her thriving Facebook Fan page to grow her business so come hear her live on July 29th at the Industry Insight Event: Designer Jewelry Business Forum & Trade Show Experience
On the front lines with Julie Brown, Founder Inner Rewards: True Story of Raising Money & Surviving in the Great Recession
In the past few months I have moderated, participated and attended panels around New York City hearing views from both venture capitalists (VCs) and entrepreneurs about the current state of the financial and capital markets. I have also been hearing stories and snippets from the 10% of venture backed companies and/or those are seeking financing within the Collective-E membership base. To get a more in depth picture I approached Collective-E member Julie Brown, Founder and CEO of Inner Rewards, who was more than generous and forthcoming about the challenges and obstacles of raising money in the "great recession." Her story literally had me sitting on the edge of my seat, not knowing from one day to the next if she was going to survive. I think her story is playing out in startups around the country and she is a lucky one, she is still surviving.
Here is the story with a chronological timeline in Julie’s words:
September-March 2007—While still working at Johnson & Johnson I started writing my business plan using Guy Kawasaki’s book, The Art of the Start where he lays out the needs one must address to investors.
June 2008—With a 40 page business plan, Power Point presentation and executive summary I was introduced by two people to a VC/Angel Investor who is a limited partner at Sequoia Capital. Back in the day (a year ago) this happened a lot, on the word of a couple connections, two meetings and with little due diligence, the investor jumped in as an investor with a first round of $765k. It just so happened that he was looking for a consumer internet play targeting women that was not solely advertising based. Inner Rewards is just that, with a business subscription and transaction model, like an eBay, Yelp, and iVillage, we provide content, reviews and deals related around health and wellness.
While many angel investors are more informal, they just want to give you convertible debt money, but because my investor is a VC we priced the company and went for a full Series A round. He also wanted us to build the company up so it would be fully backed including an executive team and board.
July 2008—I set out to hire a team and get started with an aggressive goal of building and launching a beta site by the end of the year. Because my investor wanted to build a company ready to be fully backed, and given an aggressive timeline to build a full blown site with content and videos, we ended up with a very high monthly burn rate (monthly expenses). I immediately set out to raise more money.
September 15th, 2008—Lehman collapses and the market is in turmoil, every single investor runs for the hills. I have now built up a full staff with 7 employees and 40 contractors and need to raise cash quickly or we will run out of money before I can even launch.
October 2008—I am now fundraising 30 hours per week while building the company. I continue developing the pitch and am going to every networking lunch and dinner I can find in Silicon Valley and New York. I am on the phone at least once per day with a potential investor. I find that investors are pulling back on new investments and choosing to invest in their current companies to keep them alive. In fact, investors start killing companies in their portfolio so they can focus their resources, meaning they would actually pull funding and put their money into just a few select companies.
I eventually do get some more investors to come in, but now each investor takes an average of 8 conversations at 90 minutes each, and for every single person that came in many I talked to didn’t choose to invest. They kept saying that it had nothing to do with their not believing in the company, but they simply didn’t have money. I realized I couldn't take this personally or get over emotional. I went to my original investor and asked for his help and his help was critical. He is very connected and I found that when he made a connection they usually invested after one call. For example, he went to a Goldman Sachs conference, met some guys from Citi and after one call they invested.
November 2008—In November, worried about raising even more money in tough economic conditions, I started to cut everything I could from salaries to rent (we moved 3 times) and contractors. I couldn’t lay off my core team because there would be no possible way to launch, so employees agreed to work for less and we cut payroll by 30%. I terminated 25 contractors including marketing people, writers, engineers and sales people. I was forced to make major decisions on a daily basis that affected people’s lives, that was challenging.
December 2008—In a miracle feat, we launched our beta site, albeit a very trimmed down version, but it was launched.
January 2009-- In January, the economy actually got even worse. We launched, which was great, but investors started calling immediately expecting results. Expectations were high and they wanted traffic immediately. Everyone was getting very nervous, investors were scared and they started to pull out. I continued to focus on raising money and my job for at least half of the timewas focused on raising money and the other half was spent appeasing current investors, I didn’t have time to actually run the company. I also needed to keep employees happy and feeling secure, and when I wasn’t there they got nervous and I started to worry that key employees would jump ship.
In late January, my original angel who had 10 portfolio companies was starting to kill them (pulling the plug). I had no idea if he was going to pull our funding. During this time one of the worst things that happened was that we lost a big angel who was going to come in for 500k, but he backed out last minute. After doing a complete dog and pony show, having him spend significant time in the office meeting the team and evaluating everything, he shook my hand, promised the money and then called two days later and backed out. This scared our original investor and he stopped funding. It made him think maybe there was something he didn’t know about or a reason not to invest.
These were my darkest days and very difficult to muster my own motivation, I knew in my heart that we needed 6 months to a year in cash to survive, and I didn’t think we were going to get it; we just didn’t have the metrics to launch in a recession. I feared that we would never really get the chance to thrive. I realized that we were going to run out of money at the end of February so I had a friend come which gave us 1.5 months more in cash, which was a luxury at the time, but was still a very difficult decision for me and one that in some ways I regret; it affected our friendship.
February 2009—I finally decided I needed to take more control of the situation, as a first time CEO you are really learning on the job, and I feel at this time I really started doing the job of CEO. When you are in the middle of it, working 80 hours per week, not sleeping, eating or working out, you sometimes don’t see what is really going on. I realized I hadn’t been thinking properly about how to get out of a hole and that I needed to see the big picture and get original investor resold, my strategy was to make the original investor less scared. It was tough but I wowed him over with everything we had accomplished. For example, we had come in under budget, launched on time and accomplished every single thing we said we would do. I convinced him that it was still a phenomenal idea and he didn’t want his money wasted. I also set realistic expectations explaining that it wasn't going to happen overnight. Finally, guess what? I won him back over, he committed to fully funding the company until we could raise another round!
June 2009— We are now on a run rate of 140k uniques, have over 500k page views and providers paying a monthly rate, but I still feel like we are not close to being out of the woods. As a result, we are still being super frugal by keeping our payroll deductions and expenses low, negotiating everything we can and offering contractors equity instead of cash. I now have more time to focus on the business and spend one to two days per week on fundraising. Our goal now is to build out more of the site features and get the word out to spas and wellness providers, we have traffic but we don’t have enough inventory (massages, spa days, Pilates classes) to sell.
Lessons learned
• Use your investors and find people who are trusted in the community. Unless you have done this before, you do not know the right people.
• Investors will give you money when there is no risk, the more desperate you are, the less chance to get money.
• Listen to yourself. Our original Investor wanted breadth not depth, the problem became that we launched the site and there wasn’t a lot in January to sustain in coming back. Because your investor will be insisting that you show how they made money, we showed deal section before we had enough deals. In hindsight I should have started with an amazing community and once community ramped up, then made it broader. In September, the site should be where we want it to be. Note: If you are a spa or wellness provider, we need your deals! Learn more>
Final Thoughts
While it is a great time to start a business, I now realize that we launched into the worst conditions in which to fund a new business. Before the "Great Recession” you could get an idea funded, but now, that is virtually impossible. Now you have to have the product, the metrics and a lot of great connections. There is no way we could start out today and get funding, so we are actually one of the lucky ones. While many times I wished that had done a smaller, self funded, home grown kind of company, our market size ($255 Billion for Spa Industry alone) determined that we needed to be big, so I have no regrets. We are still crawling around in diapers, but growing up quickly and look forward to playing with the big boys.
Does this experience ring true to you? Please tell us your strories of financing your business in "this economy," we can't wait to hear!
On the Front Lines w/Jessica Porter, Founder of The Raandesk Gallery of Art: The Art Industry from an Entrepreneurs Perspective
Could art be a better investment than stocks during a recession? Are there more starving artists? Do people buy art during an economic downturn? To answer these burning questions and more we approached Collective-E member Jessica Porter, Founder of The Raandesk Gallery of Art.
Jessica launched the Raandesk Gallery of Art three years ago in 2006 and started with a bang, seeing steady growth until 2008. At the end of 2008 art buying came to a screeching halt, like many others, she wondered if this was the end. Luckily, in early 2009 buyers began coming back, albeit with a different mentality and less money to spend.
Art Industry Overview: From Jessica’s perspective, “before the meltdown people were going crazy for the next trend and spending large amounts of money on art, now everything is going to dwindle down to quality work. It is a buyer’s market and more collectors are looking to emerging artists in the under 5k price range.” She goes on to say, “it has been a tough time for artists because many working for other companies being hit or more established artists who are downsizing.” She sees artists taking this time to do artists residencies, inviting more into studio, coordinating on projects with other artists, working on non-profits, in general they have been forced to become more entrepreneurial which doesn’t come natural, as most don’t see themselves as entrepreneurs.
Starting Raandesk Gallery with a bootstrapper’s mentality, Jessica inadvertently set herself up perfectly for the economic downturn and is at the forefront of bringing art online and the trend to make art collecting accessible to all. Here are some of Jessica’s strategies:
Reduce overhead. All over New York, from Chelsea to the Lower East Side galleries are closing their doors, but long before there was a hint of the downturn Jessica made the important strategic decision to keep her overhead low by using rotating gallery spaces and selling online. With a semi-permanent home at the In Good Company Workspaces and partnering with other non-traditional art venues like GeoArtNYC, Collective-E member Cynthia Gale's studio space, Jessica keeps her overhead to an absolute minimum. Without the overhead of rent she has been able to hunker down and withstand the storm. Other cost cutting measures include cutting back on virtually all paid advertising, marketing and selling online and extending her gallery exhibitions to reduce installation costs.
Affordable Art. Another fortuitous strategic decision, from the beginning Jessica decided to focus on emerging artist priced under 10k. Currently her prices range from $35 for a framed photograph to 8k. With art priced over 10k virtually dead, she is actually taking market share from other higher priced galleries.
New Marketing Strategies. Not one to sit back and wait, Jessica initiated several new strategies to market in this economy. The Art2Gift program is art priced up to $500 and has acted as a great catalyst for people to give the gift of art and introduce them to her gallery, she has also launched a bridal registry and a monthly children’s art program.
Keeping the side job. A lawyer by day and an art dealer by night, Jessica has been able to supplement her income by taking on side gigs as a freelance lawyer taking the pressure off the business and some anxiety out of her life.
Jessica is also taking on new artists, dropping artists who aren’t creating new work and focusing on a small stable of artists that are doing well, she continues to receive 30-50 submissions from artists a week. Despite all conventional wisdom, Jessica, with all her brilliant strategies could end up having her best year yet.
On the Front Lines with Julie Goldman, The Original Runner Company: The Wedding Industry from an Entrepreneurs Perspective
Is the wedding industry really recession proof? To find out if that old adage is true, that people keep getting married during recessions and therefore the industry is impacted less by the economy, we went straight to Julie Goldman, founder of The Original Runner Company.
The Original Runner Company created the first non-slip fabric aisle runners and traditionally 80% of their business has been weddings. According to Julie, the adage is not true, and virtually everyone in the wedding industry, from catering compaies to planners, venues, flowers, accessories and wedding dress desginers, is being affected. Yes people are still getting married, but they are cutting back and having smaller affairs, for instance they might reduce their wedding list from 200 to 75, elope or throw a small backyard reception after their church wedding.
After growing 20% year over year for the past 7 years and seeing revenues of close to 900k in 2008, 2009 was supposed to be The Original Runner Comopany's first million dollar year. Now, Julie, like many others in the industry is ‘going for even’ and will be thrilled to come in flat. “Everything is being hit, and it seems that planners are the first to get cut as people are taking on the planning themselves, but anything perceived as more of a luxury such as custom favors, accessories or jewelry are especially suffering.” She went on to explain, “If you think about it, if people are cutting down the size of their wedding, this impacts catering, flowers, even the size of the cake - virtually every single element of the wedding.”
Not giving up or getting down, Julie has been employing several strategies that are helping her get through:
--Revamped marketing plan to position more as a necessity than luxury. “I am asking people to re-budget by saving floral budget for reception and purchasing a runner for the wedding, at $500, a runner is less than 10% of a typical flower budget."
--Investing in infrastructure. "In 2008 I built and launched a new and improved website which is helping us stand out in the crowd and with sales."
--Running Sales. “I ran more sales than ever before, especially during the slow winter months.”
--Saving money. “This has made me realize that I wasn’t running my business efficiently. People left in November and I didn’t replace right away, I didn’t run out and hire new people like usual. I put on a spending freeze and have been diligently cutting costs and putting away money in a slush fund. In the end, I will end up a better run business because of this experience.”
All in all, Julie reports that things have been picking up. Orders are coming in, albeit much closer to the wedding (usually would see orders 8 weeks out, but now one month out). Julie sounds cautiously optimistic that the worst is behind and that people are ready to start spending.
Julie, we are hopeful too and thank you for sharing your valuable insights and innovative strategies!
On the front lines with Mariann Smith, Founder Just Bubbly: The retail environment from an entrepreneur’s perspective
While consumer confidence was a bit higher in March, the realities in the retail industry are that credit is tight, consumer spending is way down and many stores, boutiques and businesses won’t survive the downturn. Walking around New York you can see going out of business and for rent signs in every neighborhood across the city, so I can only imagine what is going on in malls and main streets across America. What we have been hearing from our Collective-E members is that retailers are “frozen,” “paralyzed” and “unwilling to take risks on new products.”
Seeking insight, we approached Collective-E member Mariann Smith, Founder of Just Bubbly, a self described “small” “artisan” soap business with revenues around $200k, sells both wholesale and retail (online) and just had an order for 7k pieces from Bath & Body Works. According to Mariann, the landscape has changed and business is different, but she is seeing revenues remain steady and expects end up even this year. Here are her observations:
• Retailers are still ordering but ordering less quantity, she estimates up to 30% less. Stores tend to reorder more frequently instead of stock. In response she has dropped her minimum from 12 to 6 pieces.
• Smaller gift shows like Philadelphia are on the rise, while the NY gift show is shrinking due to high costs. It costs 4x as much to do the New York Gift Show than Philadelphia and Philly is offering incentives such as $15 hotel rooms for buyers. She is seeing fewer international buyers coming to the New York show and says it is turning into a regional show more than the “big international show” it once was.
• It is much harder to get retailers to take a chance on new products, products need to be eye catching, make you feel good and at a reasonable price point. Her latest success was a line of alphabet block soaps in primary colors, fun and eye catching with a price point under $10.
• Consumers are using credit cards less and seem to be willing to buy products up to the price of the amount of cash in their wallet. Price points under $50 seem to be the magic number.
• Suppliers from credit card companies to UPS are nervous, which are in turn making consumers nervous. She hears stories of customers who have had their credit card limits drastically reduced for no good reason.
• When it is flushed out, she feels that the “gift” industry will be left with very big and very small., she can see with trend of trade shows that mid size manufacturers going out of business. From her point of view very big can cut fat and absorb (Manhattan Toy), very small like Mariann can hunker down, but the mid-size are in a precarious position with higher overhead and no excess fat to cut. To hunker down, Mariann is working longer hours, getting family to help and planning to reduce her seasonal hiring; her entire family worked on the Bath & Body Works order.
• She does not issue credit or take net-30 terms, only takes credit card or pre-pay with the exception of hospital stores, college book stores and larger, established retailers like Bath & Body Works. (But she still did her research before issuing credit to Bath & Body Works)
• Prediction: Doesn't see things drastically changing for another year, unemployment rate skyrocketed and we are still losing jobs. She is most worried about unemployment benefits running out right before the holiday season.
Very special thanks to Mariann for your very generous sharing of such valuable information! Shop here for some of her adorable products in Bath & Body Works, a great gift idea!
Are you an entrepreneur on the frontline? Please share your stories.

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